Friday, January 11, 2008


Todays forecast.
BIGGER THAN NORMAL!!.... 25 to 30 foot waves...Small, HELL NO!!!..
This morning i was eager to see what the reports were saying as there was to be a dramatic swell increase overnight.
To which there was... from 12-15ft to 25-30.

By mid morning the swell dropped to around 18-20ft but it was still big.
The morning swell was unridable as it was breaking from all the way out on the 3rd reef, like 2 kms away!!...
So the beach was just smashed with white wash bombs!.

Waiemea Bay was going nuts!!...
We headed out mid morning to Pipeline to see what it was like...Still way to big!.
Only 2 surfers were out.

By lunch it was still a big size swell. No one game to take it on, until the Brazilian Nuts came along.
Steffan, Paulo and friends went out to charge this swell. A little later Guilherme Tamega joined them.

Steffan caught the first wave and everyone was in cheer!!...

A few waves later, Unfortunately he copped a big wipeout and this is what happened.

Snapped board!!!

Paulo charged some sick waves!!..
HUGE 360 into the Barrel and some nice drop ins!!..

GT ripping up some reverse airs and big waves!

Tamega, A 3 times world champ dropped into a huge wave and had to bail for his life, this is what occured.

From the bottom of the wave he is about 30ft in the air!!!.The leash on his board snapped and he had to swim in 1km out from the beach in these seas... amazing!!!!...

We all watched from the beach in amazement to see these Humans charging Mother Nature, insane i say!!!...

The clouds opened up and we were hit with a beautiful sunset in the afternoon. Gotta Love Hawaii!!!..

More to come tomorrow, up early at 5:30 for a big day surfing at pipe!...Cant wait to film and photograph!!..


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