Sunday, January 6, 2008

Clean Waves Of The Hawaiian Arvo!

I'm back again...

Had a great day today. Not alot of time was spent at the beach as once again we were dabbed with rain for the first few hours of the day. We hit the water around 2ish.
First few hours of the day were the usual, up at 7am, check the reports and the swell. But since it was raining there didnt seem to be any sort of waves happening!. Played poker for a few hours, read a few magazines and surfed the web. The usual!..

Luis cooked an awesome lunch and then we were off after it settled in the stomaches!.
We got a call that Off The Wall was working, checked Rocky Lefts and then went to OTW.
OTW wasnt the best so we headed back to Rocky Point to grab those clean lefts!..

It was my first time in the water in Hawaii and i must say they have KICKASS beaches!.
Water was so so clean and the sand is beautiful.
I was quite nervous heading into the water being that usually back home most things i have surfed are beach breaks and the odd point and sharkies trip out for a paddle, but this was totally different. Waves breaking in half a foot of water. OH MY GOD!!..

And at this time i was pumped to get in there, fear was gone and ready to rock with the underwater housing!!..
Away we went, walking onto the rocks to get out, then it was for me to swim.. So i did.
Swimming out, duck diving the sets coming in and then fighting the current. Alot of fun to be had!!..

Got some ok footage, could be better but just learning the break to find the best position to be in.
Wasnt so bad after all i said to myself. That was until this bomb set came and i started paddling for my life. Duck Dived the wave to see that i was in about 2 and a half foot of water with this nice 5footer crashing on my head. Got through the first part of the wave and then it just picked me up, backflipped and then onto the rocks and reef.
Come up for a breath and i was like whoah...Ahh well i said, nothing to bad!.

Im sure it can get a bit scary out there in bigger surf, but hey i was filming in Hawaiian waters with waves. What more can i ask for!. A bit more confidence to sit in the shallow waters and film those barrels and airs. Thats about it!.

Rained whilst we were out there, then sunshine and then no wind.. Weird conditions!.
Stayed in the water for a few hours, swimming and paddling against the current tires the hell out of you. Time to get fit!... By the time i get home i will be swimming Bass straight!! :P

Finally got to watch my first Hawaiian sunset over the point. Was great, shame there were a few clouds around but i know its going to get better!

Below is some unedited footage i thought i would just show to show you what it is like.
the brown kinda things under the water is the rocks and reef. yes i know very close indeed!..

Take care everyone.


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