Thursday, January 31, 2008

Australia Day In Hawaii

Finally some swell here for the 26th. Australia Day here in Hawaii, found a few Aussies to celebrate with...hahaha

Filmed early on in the morning at Off The Wall.
Was great, can't believe how shallow it is all the way along these beaches. Is absolutely amazing.

Came home for lunch, relaxed a little and watched a bit more of the tennis and then we headed back out for an afternoon session.
Weather turned a little sour and the wind picked up, but the sun was out most of the time keeping everyone happy!!..

Didnt take many photos as most of the day was filming.
Went out to celebrate for Australia Day that night!!...

Small Waves & Exercise Time!

25th Jan left us with small waves, good lunch from Magno and a great sunset!.
Magno and i spent some time around his house relaxing, catching up, photoshoot and teaching me the exercises he learnt from Mike!.

Then watched a bit of the Australian Open on ESPN which was cool..

Man these exercises were hard and weird for the body. But once completed, i felt amazingly relaxed and the body was free of strain. This ball is the best thing thats been invented.

There wasnt much action in the water at all. Raining on and off as well so not the best of weather. It's good to relax for a day.
Helps the mind and body rest and allows for focus to begin for future days of surfing.

Magno & Mark surfed in the afternoon and then we watched a great sunset from the house and on the beach.

Thursday, January 24, 2008

A Day with Magno Oliveira!

Woke up this morning to some rain and down towards v-land some miserable weather.
But in Hawaii this can change within a minute. Had some breakfast and just hung out at the house for a little in the morning.

Checked the emails, some news back home and so forth and then got a Call from Magno.

We met at Ted's Bakery and had a little chat and then he came back to the House for a little to hang out.
The rest of Uzmi were relaxed and all sitting aroud talking, checking out some footage and photos and hanging out.
No one really wanted to surf because of the small conditions, but this is good training for smaller conditions and to increase the hunger for big waves!.

So Magno and I set out for a day of filming. Grabbed the bikes and headed for a ride to Pipeline.
Had a great ride, checked Rocky Point on the way but it wasn't working as good as Off The Wall.
Got to Mike's place and got the underwater housing ready. Met the man himself Mr Mike Stewart and had a small chat with him. What a down to earth Awesome Guy he is!!..

Met an up and coming Aussie, Tom Rigby. Nice kid and good company. Man this kid rips too!!..
Check his profile out on youtube!

We met Mark McCarthy @ Off The Wall as he was already out there.

Wind turned offshore and then no wind at all. Was some good conditions, the odd peak of sun through the clouds, clear water and smallish size, roughly 3-5ft, we were bound to have some sort of fun. Captured not that many waves but some pretty cool footage.

Was swimming in and boy did i cop it. Was hit with 2 sets of heavy waves to the head coming in. One of them i got picked up and thrown to the ground. Luckily it was sand underneath and not reef like most parts. Boom Boom Boom on the head. Lol.. I was taught to relax myself when in these conditions. I started to panic but then told myself to relax and all was ok. Let the waves take me and the next thing i knew i was standing at the shore!..Full of Sand though..hahaha

From there we headed back to Mike's place, had something to eat and had a chat with Mark, cracked a few jokes and ate these mad chocolates from Brazil and nice roasted almonds from AUS. Thanks Mark... :P

By this time it was afternoon and time to head out for another surf. Magno & I then headed to Rocky Point, met up with Paulo, Luis, Mark, Jeffinho & Aline. Did some filming there but the waves had dropped right off. Conditions were getting very small. 1-3ft.

We called it a day of surfing and then went back to Mike's watched some bodyboarding dvd from South Africa and talked away. Paying each other out with jokes and munching on more chocolates, good food and nuts!.

Rode home in the dark from Pipe to Backyards, was about a 10min ride with all my camera gear, 2 backpacks full. Man, the things a photographer has to do to make things happen..But it was a great learning curve, exercise and a show of commitment towards these projects!.

Had a good chat to Jayman!...My mate back home in Aus..Good to hear everything is going well for you and take care bud!

Off to bed now for a good nights sleep and an early surf!..

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Another Addition to Uzmi Unit

Weather has been on and off here on the North Shore for the past 2 days.
Sometimes its sunny and sometimes its raining but either way we're all happy that there is some waves.
We had a BBQ the other night, i cooked....was great until Linda tried to start the bbq with some thinner.
But anyways, that is life!....Last night LG cooked some good pasta which was very nice!..

2 Days ago we went surfing at V-Land close to home. Waves had dropped off but there was still some swell around to surf upon. 3 footers were slightly barreling allowing the guys to have some fun. Captured a few good waves. See below.

After much time trying to get a ticket to Hawaii it is with great news that number 5 in the World, Magno Oliveira "President" has arrived in Hawaii!.. Yesterday myself, Hermano, Luis and Felipe drove down to the airport to greet Magno. I drove there and back...Was good to drive and hang out on the wrong side of the car and the wrong side of the road :P. We had some fun thats for sure!..

We arrive back into the North Shore and had a huge Rainbow greeting us as we drove towards Pipeline. It started to sun shower which was great. Magno had to get into the water straight away. opened up his luggage and grabbed his boardshorts, board and fins and was ready to rock. jumped into the water and was Illuminaded!!!...He surfed some nice waves, getting some barrels and cruising pipe!... Not bad for being in the country for an hour!...

Today was another relaxing day, not many waves around. We chilled out at the house, had some guys come around and then by lunch the waves picked up slightly so the boys surfed Rocky Point. Some good fun waves there.

Paulo giving us another one of his Signature Moves!... "360 into the Barrel"

Came back and helped Felipe wash the car...Look what ended up happening!... hahahahaha...Don't trust HC with the hose!!!.:P

Just finished cooking dinner. Cooked Pizza and homemade French Fries...Good to see everyone loved!.. Then thanks to Victor we watched Ryan Hardy's Hardlyfe 2. Great film..Very inspiring!.

Off to bed now, up early to do some filming and then off to the airport to pick up Santiago Tobar!.

Saturday, January 19, 2008

EPIC Day At Pipeline!

Well today is the first day since i have been here that we call all say it was an EPIC day!

Was very tired yesterday from a good day at the beach, took quite alot of photos but no where near as many as i did today. Just over 950!...Snap Happy i was today!!!...

I Slept through my alarm this morning. Hermano woke me at 5:40am, meanwhile i checked the swell report the night before and we new this day was coming!...just didnt know it was going to be this good!!..

Arose, didnt get to eat a big breakfast and we were off to Pipe, Still dark when arriving it was certainly cold this morning...
Its amazing watching these surfers catching waves in the dark!!..
Your eyes can't adjust to actually see the surfers but you see the wave and the whitewash trail from them that runs fast along the wave..Tis Awesome!!!..

Hermano was in the water within no time!!..Grabbed 2 nice waves in the morning for breakfast! :P...
The crowd flocked as the sun rose, but 7am there were at least 30-50 people in the water surfing.

The waves just kept coming and coming, 8-12ft in size and barreling away!
The next i knew it was 11am. Sun was out, temp was at least 30 and heaps of people along the beach and in the water!!..

Hermano and I took Felipe's car and we drove to get something to eat from Ted's!..Classic egg, bacon and cheese roll and a doughnut!...yumm!!!!..

Mike Stewart Pulling an ARS

Went home and downloaded my first lot of images!.
Then headed back to the beach for some more sunshine and salt water!...

Surfer crowds got even worse, i don't know how they manage to dodge each other for a wave. Don't forget you have to give way to the Locals as well!...They're cool though!..

Managed to capture some great shots throughout the day. I'm still downloading the images to the mac as we speak!!..

The majority of us came home around 2:30pm to grab some lunch. Linda cooked a very nice pasta and we were then set to head back. Hermano stayed and grabbed a few extra waves which turned out to be nuts!..

I arrived back to the beach to the waves going INSANE!, Offshore, Barreling, Spitting, Sun Shining and everything was perfecto!!..

Stayed till sunset, we were greeted with another beautiful sunset!!...

Have some pizza now and then off to bed for an early start!!!...

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

On Shore @ North Shore..!

Finally an update for all of you out there!...
For the last few days its been noting special here.

The waves increased in size big time and we were all waiting for the Eddie Aiku to start. It was big enough in size, but the winds were HOWLING so it washed out the bay and the rest of the North Shore!.

So the waves were reaching 30ft +. Pretty crazy!..
The swell decreased over the next day to half its size but it was still MISERABLE WEATHER....So far we've had crappy weather for the last 2 days. Its been raining, winds howling, salt in the air and just weather you want to sleep to!..

So its been kinda lazy here in the house. Playing some PS2 Fifa 07, watching some Bodyboarding Movies and just hanging out.
I've been working out inside, trying to get fit and increase my stamina. Been feeling great. Eating well. Hermano and I have been mixing up some awesome protein smoothies and shaving his head! :P...

Didnt get out to take any photos for the last 3 days as it was hard to get outside without getting wet or blown over!.

Tomorrow the swell is ment to get a little better so the camera will come out!.

A Shoutout to my good old buddies Ange and Ivy!!...Hope all is great in at H/O with you all!!..Hehehe

big Hugs to my family back home, my middle sister Giarne has been working hard doing some Modelling Photoshoots. Finally doing something with your life!..hahaha nice work!...Sienna hope you are well, miss you and will see you soon and Myanna keep working hard, it will pay off!!!...

Woke up this morning at 6:30am and checked out the surfat Pipe. Shocking waves, wind was onshore and everything was crappy. then went for a ride to V-land and still crappy waves there. Came home and chilled out for a bit. H.C and I went to Foodland and got some breads, fruit and so on for a big Breaky!!...Had a good breakfast and then got the call from PB that the waves were working!.

Today for the first time i surfed in the Hawaiian waters!!... Wow so amazingly Beautiful!. Was breaking between 5-7ft, The wind changed and turned offshore for about half hour.
Paulo Barcellos picked me up and we went for a look around. Sunset Beach it was!...
We finally had some blue skies and sunshine!

i was kinda nervous heading out into these waters, not knowing the water, seeing bigger sets than i have ridden before and definately alot heavier wave than back home!.

Big paddle out, found it very easy to get out since the currents were pretty strong, had to paddle about 500m out to the breaks. I decided to sit out on the shoulder for a while, still nervous and watch these locals and PB rip it up!!! Was pretty crowded too. Sunset was the pick of the day apparently and in Hawaii where ever there is waves, there is a crowd with it!.
I then decided i was going to charge a wave, finally after about an hour i caught one, not the best wave but pretty decent. Felt so good after i pulled off and paddled back out towards the line up..

Stayed out for about another half hour and then decided to call it quits. Arms were hurting from constantly paddling after the big workout yesterday.

Tonight we went to Rocky Point and watched another great sunset!. Didnt take the camera because we organised to meet up at the Tennis court opposite Pipeline for some tennis, Foot volley and then watch some Capoeira!..

Had a great night and just got home!....
Early night tonight because wind should be light and waves should be good in the morning!..

Pics and more to come tomorrow!!..

Ciao!! :D

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Sunshine in Pipeline!

Another great day today!!..

Not many clouds in the sky, sun was shining and everyone flocked to the beach for a relaxing sunday on the North Shore.
The bonus was the Da Hui Backdoor Shootout final day was running. So there was an awesome day full of surfing!.. Many pro's competing in this local event.

Local Pipeline master Jamie O'Brien who lives directly in front of Pipe ripped his way through some waves to win the contest. Taking out $50k, bragging rights and another win to his belt, he was stoked!...

A few All Star Bodyboarders were also out and about in the pacific ocean!.
GT, Mr Tamega was cranking some waves!...

Very tired today from a lazy day in the sun on the beach, so not much to update with.

Tomorrow on the other hand is ment to be INSANE!!!!... We are apparently due for a MEGA Swell!....
the reports are talking anywhere between 25 and 45 ft!!!...

Big talks that the Quicksilver Eddie contest will run, for this event to run, it has to be over 25ft. So we are all hoping so!!.... Waimea will be packed!!...

Take care!!...

Friday, January 11, 2008

Swell is Still Here!

Another day in Hawaii!!...

Today was a bit of a dull day to start off with!!...
Alarm rang at 5:45, i was soo tempted to go back to bed but i wasnt going to miss out on a day in Hawaii!!..

6am down at Pipe as usual, getting used to it. Surfers were in the water surfing again whilst it was dark!...

Sun rose and the crowds flocked. After this big swell, it died down slightly and was sitting around 7-10ft.
Very clean in the morning and some great waves to be had!.

Mike Stewart, Jeff Hubbard and the Uzmi boys were all out there having some fun.
Once again everyone was ushered from the water early around 8ish as the final day of the Backdoor Shootout was on.

We then headed to Rocky Point to have a great day there.

Had an encounter with a celebrity as well. Had a little chat to Jack Johnson, he was out for a surf...Nice guy!!!...
Here he is ripping it up!

Had another great sunset!!..

Not much else to say except we apparently have a swell over 30 ft coming on sunday. Wait and see!!..